There is a scene in the new acclaimed drama series The Bear (it’s very, very good) where two American chefs discuss how much they hate cooking brunch.
While I won’t repeat the words they used here, it’s since been made into a meme, as well as a Reddit thread where fellow chefs discuss how much they relate with that scene.
I certainly can’t vouch for how local chefs feel about it, but if a growing number of menus across Perth are anything to go by, they’re not huge fans of the stock standard brunch menu either.
A morning menu that was typically a mix of egg, pancake and big brekkie options has been fleshed out with burgers, gnocchi, salads and sandwiches.
Little H Cafe in Duncraig is a great example of staying true to the classics, but also expanding the offering to include a quesadilla, reuben sandwich and pan-fried ricotta gnocchi with chorizo, mushroom and a poached egg.
The popular eatery was packed to the brim with families and friends, plus a few friendly dogs in the courtyard, on a weekend morning.
We decided to go for one more traditional brunch item, bubble and squeak ($20), and one that could be eaten at any time of the day, croquettes ($24).
You may not have tried bubble and squeak at a restaurant before, but chances are you’ve cooked it at home. It’s basically what many of us do at the end of the week: throw everything we’ve forgotten about in the fridge into a pan and eat it with toast.
Little H’s version had pan-fried potatoes, cabbage, bacon, chorizo, spinach and a poached egg over sourdough. It typically comes with a sriracha hollandaise, which we left off, but if you enjoy it would make a tasty touch.
All of the contents were well-cooked and combined perfectly for a hearty breakfast, brunch or lunch that would keep you full until your next meal.
Croquettes, more typically a starter or part of a share menu, were made with sweet potato and corn and topped with garlic aioli and chilli maple, and brought into the breakfast realm with the addition of two poached eggs.
The meal lent itself to being the first meal of the day as the crunchy morsels were filling alongside the protein of the eggs, which were perfectly runny, plus a few leafy greens never go astray. Coffee, an oat milk cappuccino ($5.50), was spot on in heat and strength.
As someone who has been guilty of having a breakfast meal at dinner time, any menu that incorporates the best of both worlds is fine by me.
34 Marri Rd, Duncraig
Mon – Sun, 6am-3pm
0448 181 803
The verdict: Buzzy and friendly neighbourhood cafe with a big menu of brunch classics and favourites. Even on a busy morning you won’t have to wait too long for a table, and food and coffee come out quickly.
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